Weaver’s studio 2 Ishigaki Island

DSC_8046

Yaeyama-jofu is generally known as fine cloths with double ikat patterns, woven with hand spliced white ramie thread, called “Shiro-Jofu(white fine cloth)”, by comparison with Miyako-Jofu which is in deep indigo color.  However, according to some historical documents, there were colored Yaeyama-Jofu as well…

DSC_8047I met some weavers who grow their own ramie plants in the back yard.  They are “Shiro-Boo(white ramie)”.
I witnessed some other kinds of ramie plants near the beach.  People call them native or wild ramies.

Pointy leaves…are they native kind of ramie?

DSC_8202

DSC_8095

DSC_8089

 

DSC_8100

This is a warp winding process of kimono fabric, about 39 feet long, prepared for double ikat pattern. Most of the Yaeyama-Jofu, nowadays, are woven with machine spun warp threads and only weft threads are hand spliced.

DSCN1642

DSCN1643

The warp was tie-dyed beforehand, stretched in the longest distance of the studio.  With a help of warp winding tool, it could be wound perfectly.

DSCN1637

DSCN1663

DSC_8572 DSC_8586 IMG_1781

 

DSCN1668

 

DSCN1671

As the warp beam case is removable, you just need to bring the warp over to your loom and quietly start threading…

DSCN1682

DSC_8126

 

This ”Ayatsuburu (double warp mill system)“ is specially designed for “Nassen-Jofu” (rub-dyed double ikat pattern-fine ramie cloth).

DSCN1645

DSC_8035

DSC_8042

DSC_8031

DSC_8034

Nassen-Jofu

Nassen-Jofu

Tools for rubbing dye solution into the threads.

Tools for rubbing dye solution into the threads.

 

Finishing process for Yaeyama-jofu.  After the whole length is wound around the roller looking beam, you start pounding with a wooden hammer.

DSC_8275

DSC_8265

Sea water bleaching process is efficient for the Nasssen-Jofu which has “Kuuru” double ikat pattern on the white background. The sea water can fortify orange/brown “Kuuru” dye color. The color of ikat becomes darker brown, and the back ground white fabric is bleached, becomes even whiter.                          IMG_1797