Yaeyama-jofu is generally known as fine cloths with double ikat patterns, woven with hand spliced white ramie thread, called “Shiro-Jofu(white fine cloth)”, by comparison with Miyako-Jofu which is in deep indigo color. However, according to some historical documents, there were colored Yaeyama-Jofu as well…
I met some weavers who grow their own ramie plants in the back yard. They are “Shiro-Boo(white ramie)”.
I witnessed some other kinds of ramie plants near the beach. People call them native or wild ramies.
Pointy leaves…are they native kind of ramie?
This is a warp winding process of kimono fabric, about 39 feet long, prepared for double ikat pattern. Most of the Yaeyama-Jofu, nowadays, are woven with machine spun warp threads and only weft threads are hand spliced.
The warp was tie-dyed beforehand, stretched in the longest distance of the studio. With a help of warp winding tool, it could be wound perfectly.
As the warp beam case is removable, you just need to bring the warp over to your loom and quietly start threading…
This ”Ayatsuburu (double warp mill system)“ is specially designed for “Nassen-Jofu” (rub-dyed double ikat pattern-fine ramie cloth).
Finishing process for Yaeyama-jofu. After the whole length is wound around the roller looking beam, you start pounding with a wooden hammer.
Sea water bleaching process is efficient for the Nasssen-Jofu which has “Kuuru” double ikat pattern on the white background. The sea water can fortify orange/brown “Kuuru” dye color. The color of ikat becomes darker brown, and the back ground white fabric is bleached, becomes even whiter.